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How to Fix Frozen Air Conditioning Coils

Causes and corrective measures to fix frozen evaporator coils in your home air conditioning system.

Air conditioning (AC) equipment is a complex mix of electrical, mechanical, and plumbing components that must work together to provide sufficient cooling and air flow in an HVAC system. Small problems can result in higher energy costs, lower comfort levels, and damage to the equipment which can cost thousands of dollars to replace. A common problem seen with air conditioning and refrigeration equipment are frozen evaporator coils. Refrigerators and freezers typically have a built in thaw cycle to limit ice build up, but standard AC equipment usually is not equipped with this feature, but there are a few simple causes that you should be aware of that will help prevent freezing coils.

The two causes for frozen coils is either a lack of airflow across the evaporator coil or a problem within the refrigeration system.

Troubleshooting

Most homeowners don’t realize there is a problem until they see that the unit runs continuously, the temperature is too warm, or there is reduced airflow. When people here the hum of the blower and compressor running, they assume it is working. If they happen to go outside and see ice on the line coming out of the home, they might become concerned. The real cause for the reduced capacity is that the evaporator coil, the one inside the air handler, is either partially or completely frozen preventing any air from getting through. To see this you would have to remove an access panel on your unit to inspect the coil. If you go to the air handler you may notice the area where the coil is located may be sweating due to the ice inside coming in contact with the metal casing of the unit or plenum. The condensate drain may also be sweating from the colder than normal temperatures. In extreme instances, ice will begin to form on the outside of the unit.

Ice forming on exterior refrigerant line around filter drier

Typical Air Conditioning System (http://knol.google.com/k/how-to-home-repair-and-home-inspection-links-for-knols# )

The best thing to do once you notice your air conditioner is frozen is to turn it off. If it is summer and you have a frozen heat pump system you can turn it to the heating mode and it will pump hot refrigerant through the coil to accelerate the defrosting process. If an excessive amount of ice is on the evaporator coil, defrosting the frozen coil may overflow the condensate drain and you may have some water damage. This may happen on any type of system if the air handler is located in a hot attic. For standard AC systems, go to the thermostat and turn the air conditioner to the off position and turn the fan switch to on or manual at the selector switch on your thermostat. This will help defrost the frozen evaporator coil and by blowing warm room air over the coil.

On manual thermostats the selector switch is on the bottom or side to place the fan to ON

Also note that a heat pump will form frost or ice on the outside condenser coils in the winter which is common and most heat pumps are equipped with a method to defrost the condenser coils.

A-coil completely frozen

A-coil partially frozen

Filters

While the coil is defrosting, check to see if your filters are dirty and need to be changed. The reduced airflow from dirty filters is the most common cause for frozen coils. If you have new filters, throw away the dirty ones and replace with the new set. If you have a washable filter, rinse out the mesh screen in a laundry sink or outside with a hose. Do not use soap to wash the filter and only use water unless the manufacturer recommends some cleaning agent. Replace your filters at least every 60 days during the cooling season, and at least every 90 days during the rest of the year. If you have flat filters instead of a pleated style, you may want to replace them once a month.

Blower

Another common cause for reduced air flow is a dirty blower. The fan located in the air handler is commonly referred to as a blower and it is usually located after the filters and either before or after the evaporator coil. Even if you change your filters regularly, the blower cage can still get dirt deposits on the fins and reduce airflow since some air can bypass the filters around the edges. You may want to check to see if the foam gasket is in place around the edge of the filter frame. Also make sure that your filter is the proper size by consulting your operation manual for the unit. Most evaporator coils are designed to have at least 400 cubic feet per minute (CFM) of airflow across the evaporator coil per ton of air conditioning. If you have a 3 ton air conditioning unit or heat pump you need 1200 CFM of airflow across the evaporator or the air conditioner will freeze.

Blower Motor and Cage

A few other causes for reduced airflow are:

• Collapsed ductwork

• Loose Fan Belt

• Bad blower motor

• Obstructions to return grilles – such as furniture placed in front of wall returns

• A dirty Evaporator coil – see my article on cleaning coils - http://knoji.com/how-to-clean-your-hvac-system-with-coil-combs-chemicals-or-ultraviolet-light/

Turn off the power to the system prior to checking the blower or removing panels and covers.

After the coil has thawed completely, replace all access panels and covers and turn the system back to cooling mode and the fan back to AUTO. Check the system every hour to ensure that there is proper airflow and that there is no ice forming.

Caution: Never use any sharp objects to try to chip away the ice on the coil, while you may not damage the refrigerant lines, you will definitely bend the aluminum fins and reduce the airflow. The only recommended way to speed the defrosting process is to place a fan by the coil to increase air circulation. If you leave the access panel off of the unit and turn only the fan on, the blower will pull in enough air defrost the ice quickly. So people may want to use a heat gun or hairdryer to help melt the ice, but this is not usually necessary  unless you need the unit running as soon as possible.

Refrigerant Problems

A frozen air conditioning system can also be caused by a refrigeration problem. The most common problem is a refrigerant leak, often referred to as Freon®. (Freon® is a trademark name of DuPont Corporation). This means that the air conditioning is low on refrigerant. This leak needs to be repaired and then the system recharged by a professional HVAC technician. A frozen air conditioning system can also be caused by a refrigeration problem when pressures drop in the evaporator. A pressure drop in the evaporator coil means that the refrigerant will be colder than the dew point. When the evaporator coil in your air conditioner operates below the dew point the moisture or humidity in the air will freeze to the coil. Frost will appear on the air conditioner evaporator coil and start to restrict airflow and then accelerate the freezing process. This will eventually form a solid block of ice and restrict the air flow of the air conditioning system. Only a trained HVAC professional has the tools to fix this type of problem.

Another refrigeration problem is a clogged filter/drier, which is a component installed in the copper tubing near the condenser unit outside to remove water and dirt from the inside of the system. They are usually installed after a repair if the system is opened to the atmosphere. This will lower the pressure inside the evaporator coil and cause it to freeze. If your system has an expansion valve installed before the evaporator coil, this may be defective and require replacement.

Expansion Valve

Filter Drier

Air Circulation

Low return air temperatures will cause the same results as the above conditions. The air entering the evaporator coil is too low and may be from supply air recirculating or the thermostat set too low. It is important to check these temperatures prior to troubleshooting.

If the outside temperature drops below 60 and there are no condenser fan controls, the condensing pressures drop below their normal operating levels. This causes a pressure drop in the refrigerant entering the evaporator coil and this will cause the same symptoms as when the unit is low on refrigerant. Operating a condenser in lower temperatures can be accomplished by installing a low-ambient kit which keeps the condenser fan off until the temperature/pressure inside the coil reaches a certain level.

Remember, when you see ice on your air conditioner pipes shut the system down and allow it to defrost. Check for proper airflow or call in an HVAC professional to find and repair the problem.

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Comments (42)
Daniel Sinclair

Great article! You went into great detail about what really happens with a frozen coil. You also gave some great advice that I would like to share with my customers. Thanks again for the great information.

No problem Dan.

Shayne Ryder

Thank you for all the information! This site was the only one that answered all my questions. I never realized that dirty air filters were a major cause of freezing up, and I will not be more diligent in changing them. Especially since it will save me A LOT of money in the long run. My only remaining question is: Even if you do not see any ice on the outside of the coil, can freezing up still be the problem? Thank you.

Shayne, a thin layer of ice can form on the coil surfaces but as it forms it reduces the airflow through the coil which accelerates the formation. Typically if there is a small amount of ice of the coil it usually melts when the unit shuts off and then reforms when it runs. It is not a serious problem unless it forms a solid block at the bottom of the coil and then works it way up. Most likely you are a little low on refrigerant or the filters are starting to get dirty. If the coils are not cleaned this might occur shortly after the filters are changed.

Jeff Clark

Mine is froze up on the inside of the house and I cut the power about 11 hours ago and it is frozen even more this morning. Now it is frozen solid with no power going to it. Not sure how that happens and how to stop it.

It sounds like you may have a refrigerant leak or you shut off the power to your indoor unit (air handler) and not the outdoor unit (condenser). You can try to defrost it with a fan or hair dryer or pouring some warm water over the ice after you remove the filters from the unit and if the blower is not going to get wet. The ice is very cold due to the low temperature of the refrigerant so any moisture in the air will continue to freeze.

Eric

My coils are frozen on top and bottom, and a very thin layer on the outside pipes. I turned off the a/c and the circuit breaker. I am concerned I mght have a serious problem because of the outside pipes. I just noticed this about an hour ago..The cooling unit is in the attic so I am also concerned about defrosting it too fast because of the potential for water damage. Is there anything else you can recommend?

Eric, Since there is ice on the pipes outside it is most likely due to low refrigerant and this may be caused by a very small leak. You may want to place a plastic tarp or a plastic sheet beneath the unit as it defrosts. Keep the plastic away from any electrical connections or refrigerant piping. After the unit has thawed out, restart it and check the coils every 10 to 15 minutes. If it freezes up again it will start as a thin layer of frost over most of the coil that will not melt away. Again check the filters and blower/belt to make sure you are moving as much air as possible. If it continues to freeze have a service technician inspect it, but I would think that it is a low refrigerant problem. Good luck.

kathy

I live in an apartment complex and our ac unit froze up and the maintenance man told us that is only the filter and I see to it that they were changed out at least every other month. We live in Texas and it is 92 degrees today we are moving out next week and need sleep. I think that the freon is leaking out of the unit because the maint has had to charge the system at least once a week in the last three months and think that the unit needs to be serviced has been thawing for almost 24 hours and still not a lot of air coming out of the vents.

If they have added Freon several times in the past few months then that is most likely the problem. Ask them to use a refrigerant leak detector or have them add fluorescent dye to the system to locate the leak. Most likely it will be near the outside unit or where the lines enter the unit near the coil. You may be able to locate the leak if you see any oily spots on or around the copper tubing. Read my article on how to find refrigerant leaks here: http://factoidz.com/how-to-locate-refrigerant-leaks-in-your-air-conditioning-system/ Good luck.

Bea

house became warm and i notice that there was ice on pipe leaving outside airconditioner unit leading under the house i shut unit off and and turned off at the breaker box i then took water hose and hosed unit down and meltedicei notice poor insulation on pipes leading from unit to under my home. should i let thaw and dry completely, and insulate myself or call a repair man ?

Bea, You can insulate the piping yourself and it is normal for some frost or ice to form on uninsulated refrigerant lines. You can buy the pipe insulation at any hardware store or home center, use the black foam insualtion that is at least 1/2 inch thick, but 3/4 inch insualtion would be better. If the house is still warm after you do this, check your filters, but it sounds like you may need refrigerant added to your system.

Lin

a coil froze up inside unit . Took a blow dryer to remove ice, filter was dirty changed it. Pured hot water on coil to clean off and check drain,turned unit back on running fine for now,plenty of air comming out of vents up stairs now.Let hope that fixed it Thanks.

Great write up! And one problem I'd never want to tackle personally...

tony e

hello,we've been having 90's here in nj..noticed yesterday that the ac air is not blowing enough air thru the vents and not cooling the house,a/c filter is clean,unit is less than 6 yrs old..went outside noticed the refrigerant line (insulated pipe) is forming ice and frozen.i turned off ac and wait till am and ill check again if it's ok...any suggestions what the problem is?greatly appreciated..before i call a tech

Tony E, It sounds like you haved an issue with low refrigerant or the filter drier or expansion valve. If the exterior piping freezes again after you start the unit you should call an HVAC technician and have him check the system. Hopefully he will only need to add some refrigerant. It may have a small leak in the piping outside; you said that the unit was 6 y/o, is it a replacement for a previous unit? it is possible that there was a small leak and it slowly lost refrigerant and now it is starting to freeze. It a leak needs to be repaired or filter drier replaced, the system will need to be shut off and the piping evacuated of refrigerant so the repairs can be made.

tony e

hi,me again...so i have assumed that the ac system has possible freon leaks (the insulated refrigerant pipe outside is frozen)..my 2 part question is...the ac unit was replaced about 4 years ago by a different company using the old heater system because of freon leak,afterwards the old heater was replaced less than 3 years ago also by a different company...so now we have an almost brand new hvac system by 2 different companies..if the freon leaks occurs now,which one should fix the problem?i'm sure it is still under warranty..I NEED HELP !! pls advise thank you

Tony E, I wouldn't assume that the work is covered by a warranty, most contractor's warranties are 6 months to 1 year for work. The actual condenser unit may have a 3 or 5 year warranty, but the leak is probably in the piping connecting the indoor unit to the evaporator coil inside the house. You might want to call the contractor that replaced the unit on the outside. If there is no ice on the piping near the air handler/heater on the inside of your house, the leak is probably outside. But since the system has been opened up twice in the past 4 years, it may only be the filter drier, which is also outside. My guess is that the contractor who replaced your indoor unit did not replace the filter drier outside and it is now clogged with dirt and moisture.

Frank

Daniel,

here is my case, i purchased the house this year, the unit outside the house was not working, but the previous owner has another used one in the garage that i installed and it seamed to be working,

1- the previous one was 2.5 ton the new one is 3 ton, contractor said it's ok.

we hooked it filled it up with freyon but it still need some we couldnt put as mych as we can due to ambiant temp. which he said for example if outside temp = 75 freyon on the guage should be 65 please advice,

when we got these 100 plus degree days the unit was not cooling the house! no cold air through the vents and almost no airflow, then i went outside and i saw a layer of ice on the piping going from the outside unit to the house,

please advise as soon as you can .

thank you in advance

Frank, It is true that the ambient air temperature does affect the charge of refrigerant. To a point the technician can compensate for this, but he should have come back afterwards on a warmer day and checked the unit while it was running. It sounds like you need additional refrigerant added to the system. You might want to have him check for leaks also. Check to see if a filter drier was installed; the system sound have one since the piping was exposed to the atmosphere. Good luck.

sandy spencer

I called serviceman 2 wks ago because no cool air and fan outside was not running. He said it was low on freon, so he installed 7 ibs and put a new valve stem on because it was leaking. Now after 2 wks, I came home to a hot house and I noticed pipe outside had ice and inside pipes had condensation on them. Do you know what the problem could be? Thank you

It is common for Schrader valves to leak, but if the pipe is icing up again it could be that the filter drier needs to be replaced or there may be another leak. Have the technician come back and ispect the piping for more leaks. You can read this article to help you find leaks - http://factoidz.com/how-to-locate-refrigerant-leaks-in-your-air-conditioning-system/ It is hard to diagnose a problem without being there, so good luck!

Josh

Daniel, air handler leaks when the front panel is on covering the a-frame evaporator section. The majority of the condensation is not even making it to the pan when the cover is on. It all leaks to the bottom of the air handler, especially when I turn off the unit. When the cover is off the condensation makes it to the pan and drains to the pump, which is also working. I know its not good to run the system with the panels off, but i wanted to check if it would still leak, and it does not leak. However The copper tubes seem to be where the leak is coming from, at least that's where all the condensation is dripping when the cover is off. Some of it is blowing to the vertical condensate pan and down to the hor. pan. The ducts are not blocked and the coils are not frozen. Not sure if it's low on refrigerant, not getting enough air, leaking copper tubes? Thank you in advance!!

Josh

Daniel, air handler leaks when the front panel is on covering the a-frame evaporator section. The majority of the condensation is not even making it to the pan when the cover is on. It all leaks to the bottom of the air handler, especially when I turn off the unit. When the cover is off the condensation makes it to the pan and drains to the pump, which is also working. I know its not good to run the system with the panels off, but i wanted to check if it would still leak, and it does not leak. However The copper tubes seem to be where the leak is coming from, at least that's where all the condensation is dripping when the cover is off. Some of it is blowing to the vertical condensate pan and down to the hor. pan. The ducts are not blocked and the coils are not frozen. Not sure if it's low on refrigerant, not getting enough air, leaking copper tubes? Thank you in advance!!

Josh, It is common for a leaking air handler to stop leaking when the access panel is removed as the force of the air pulls the water back into the unit. It would seem that the leaking around the tubing is due to the fact that that is where there is a hole. There could be two possible problems; 1) The unit is not level or the condensate pan is tilted and the condensate can't get to the drain before it leaks out of the tubing penetration, 2) The airflow is too high (static pressure) and the blower is pulling the condensate into the unit. Make sure your balancing dampers are opened and air is getting to all the registers. You may want to look at my article on condensate line traps: http://factoidz.com/how-to-properly-install-a-condensate-line-trap/ if there is no trap more air gets pulled into the unit. I don't think the copper tubing/refrigerant are the cause of the leakage. Good luck.

Sean Williams

how long can an air condition unit run without freon before damage occurs. Noticed that air has been less cold coming out of the vent the last 2 days and AC has been running constantly. After noticing ice build up on the lines and very little air coming out of the vent I turned AC off. Could there be damage to the unit sinece it has been running like this for the past 2-3 days?

Sean, The unit has safety devices to shut off the compressor in the event of high temperature or high or low head pressure. That the unit was running contiuously for 2-3 days does not necessarily mean that the compressor was running continuously. Once the ice has melted and the system checked, it should run fine. I suspect that the system in low on refrigerant or there is a problem with the expansion valve. If you notice the line icing up again, call a service technician and have him check for any leaks and if refrigerant needs to be added. If the compressor is more than 10 years old you should probably replace it.

MANISH

i m doing ac repair work one of my clients ac indoor unit gets ice upto suction line the coil is cleaned blower flow is ok back pressure is 50 when i m increasing the gas its result same i tried to reduced it also but no effect the passing from drier is good i m not able to understand suggest me the solution

If the unit is small, the amount of refrigerant in the hoses of the gauge will affect the system charge, the hoses can hold about 0.2 ounces. Consult the manual for the unit to determine the exact refrigerant charge. If you are off by an ounce or 2 you can affect the operation and cause the unit to ice up. The oher issue may be that the outdoor temperature is close to the indoor temperature, causing the coindenser to over cool the refrigerant. Proper refrigerant charge should correct it. Also, make sure that the coil and lines are completely thawed out before putting it back into cooling mode.

Lori

I noticed today that the a/c was running constantly and hard. I turned off the unit and heard water pouring out of the unit. I went into the garage where the unit is located and noticed water everywhere.

I snaked the piping where the condensation drains and a lot of debris came out of the pipe. I also cleaned the pipe with bleach and thoroughly flushed it with water and that part now seems to be clear. I just bought this house 9 weeks ago. There are (or were until tonight) 2 filters - one at the air intake inside the house and one at the bottom of the unit. There is also limited air inflow to the unit due to the installation design. Based on comments made in my inspection report that this 2 filter/lack of air flow system could cause some problems, I finally removed the soaking wet filter at the bottom of the unit (I chose that one because I have 2 cats and I thought the filter inside the house would be more effective to keep the cat hair out of the unit). I should also note that I have had the windows open while running the unit (yes, I know this is bad but I am still airing out the musty smell from the former wall to wall carpet).

I have not taken any of the panels off of the unit to check anything else. When I removed the filter, I noticed that the air at that level was too cold to be normal and assume that whatever is located right above the filter space is frozen. I turned the fan on as suggested above to help thaw out the unit. I heard something drop from the bottom of the unit and assume it is ice. But, again, because of the design of the installation of the unit, I am unable to verify because there is no way to see under the unit. Since there is already water everywhere, I can't even make a guess that ice is melting. So my question is, run the a/c again to see if all it was was the combination of running the unit with the windows open, the drain pipe being clogged and having 1 too many filters that caused the problem or just suck it up and call the a/c repairman? I have to admit that hate to call the ac guys here in Miami because it's hard to find an honest one and I always feel like I've just been raped after they leave.

Lori, I'm sorry to hear about your problems. Yes, 2 filters will restrict the airflow substantially, espeecially after the first one, inside the house, begins to get clogged. It doesn't matter which filter you keep, but it would probably be better to keep the one next to the unit so you can inspect the unit when the filter is replaced. The clogged condensate line was most likely due to the fact that the windows were open and excess moist air was drawn into the unit and condensed on the coils. That alone would not have caused the problem, but with the reduced airflow, the unit can freeze any water on the surface of the coil. After you are sure that the ice has melted, close all of the windows and run the unit with just one clean filter. You may want to remove a panel to see if the belt needs to be replaced which it sounds like it needs to be since you say it is difficult to access. Check to see that return grilles are not blocked by furniture.

Warren, Since you have a heat pump the repairs are slightly different. Please read my article on Heat Pump Maintenance here: http://factoidz.com/how-to-maintain-your-heat-pump/ I talk about frost build up on the exterior unit. You may need to clean the exterior coils or check that the fan is producing the required CFM through the coils.

My home HVAC system is freezing up at the evaporator coil. The majority of refrigerant tubing is behind ceiling sheetrock. The technican is recommending using a system sealant to remedy the refrigerant leak and says it'a 90% effective. Is this a good idea and is there an approximate cost for the sealant? Thanks!

George

live in Arizona,  110 today,  house is steady 79oF AC seems to be running fine,  however I always look at that condensation line whenever i go outside,  and today it was dry as a bone,  went in attic drip pan dry also,  filter was filthy,  changed it,  switched to heat for 30 minutes,  no water nowhere..   back on AC house is cool again,  i know were in a dry climate,  but come on,  need to see condensation right..  ill check for anything frozen.    AC guy coming in morning.  thanks,  great site!

update: just went in attic, unbuttoned coil area no freezing at all, nothing dry.  still no condensation,

 

George,

SuperSeal is one of the most common refrigerant line and coil sealants on the market, it costs between $50-60, plus the service charge for the HVAC mechanic which varies. It can be used for residential and commercial systems and it has been used extensively on micro-leaks.

DMC in AZ,

While you are in an arid climate, you should have some condensate, but to be sure you may want to compare the humidity levels inside and outside; if they are within 10% of each other, there may not be enough moisture in the air to form condensate. If your unit cycles off and on quickly there may not be enough time for the condensate to form and drip into the pan. When the compressor and fan go off, the condensate on the face of the coil evaporates back into the air stream, this is a problem in systems that are oversized, they cool off the home too quickly and the unit shuts off. You might want to lower the thermostat down to 75 and let it run, it should produce condensate if there is enough indoor humidity. Another issue may be the condensate line trap, if the trap is too shallow, it could pull in outside air and if it is too deep, it could keep the condensate inside the unit before it has a chance to drain out. Read my article here: http://air-conditioning-hvac.knoji.com/how-to-properly-install-a-condensate-line-trap/

Dan, great article, you gave me some ideas. OK, dumb question.  To check my coils... I can't get to my coil easily as it's insulated behind a layer of fiberglass.  Do I simply cut a square access panel out of it, and then replace it after inspection and tape seams?  My unit leaks water every year straight from the white thing sticking out, which I believe are the coils since the condensate line runs into it.

thanks!

Rob,

Sorry I didn't see your post earlier. You can cut an access but you need to be careful so as not to cut an copper tubing. There is usually a panel that you can remove to get to the coils, but you may have to unscrew a panel on the front to remove it.  Sometimes you need to cut a slot where the hole for the piping is in the metal casing to slide the panel off. Hopefully the PVC line (white thing) is connected to the drain pan. If the unit is old, the metal may have rusted out around the PVC and is leaking, you can try to seal it with some putty, caulk tape, or epoxy that you can push around the drain pan connection.

Great article, though I couldn't read but half of the first couple of pages because of the intrusive and sticky  ads.

RodB

Im currently in Chicago, my york unit is less than 2 years old. It came with the pre charged lines when they installed it. Since ive had the unit it has been great..During our 100+days it kept the house at 71 degrees when calling for 69. 2 nights ago it was 75 out and i tried to keep the house at 68 to reduce humidity and temp. It frosted up the a coil within 24 hours. I defrosted it and it does not blow that cool anymore. Not sure whats going on.

Thank you so much for a great, informative article.  My air flow was minimal, house was hot, I checked the return filter and it wasn't there.  It had come off/out of the frame.  So, no filter at all for past several weeks.  I can only imagine the dirt that got thru.  Flushed the pvc pipe & it seemed to help a bit...air flow increased, cooler, but about 20 min. later I heard small banging/thumping sounds.  Went to air handler again & noticed condensation on outside of the metal cover; felt cold.  Removed all the screws & the cover & found the entire system frozen with ice.  Shut off system, eliminated last section of pvc pipe so it would drain into a bucket rather than outside.  (All this is going on at 3 am, so I didn't go out to the shed to get the wet vac to suc or take a hose to the line, etc.  It will have to wait til later - also now pouring rain. Took a blow dryer near it to speed up the defrost, cuz I was afraid of the amount of water, but it's not much, it's draining into bucket nicely, has a bit to go.  THANK YOU for all of your info.  It gave me the courage to do all of this myself.

I assume that because of lack of filter, dirt affected the system.  I will continue this adventure after a few hours of sleep. Once the sun comes up, the Miami heat will get to me quickly with no air conditioner, so I'm really happy to have done all this now...thanks again for your well written article:)            Gloria

It's quiet helping. I just follow these steps to troubleshoot and solve air condionter problems. I have found the follwoing problems during trouble shoot. 

Dirty Filters  

Filters are too dirty which effects my ac performance.

Fan is too slow 

Fan speed is too slow which creates incredibale nosie. 

I have chnage teh motor of fan and clean the filters now it's runing good. 

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